Negros Island was the first Philippine province I encountered, after exploring 85 other countries as a life-long cruising yachtsman.

They say that first impressions are the best and travelling along offshore around the coast was absolutely inspiring with the magnificent Mt Cuernos de Negra and Mt Canlaon as back drops. The mountains are centrally located dormant volcanoes, responsible for the entire landscape, having produced enormous volumes of lahar in their active years. With the seaward progress of that lahar many hills and valleys eventually developed through weather wearing.

"Lahar" is a type of mudflow that flows down from a volcano, typically along a river valley. The mud originates from existing volcanic ash deposits mixed with water, for instance from heavy rain during a typhoon. Once the mud has spread it dries and solidifies. During the millennia the Negros lahar has crumbled and turned into quite fertile soil. When it is wet it turns black, which is probably from where the Island has got its name: "Negros".

So it came about that the hidden wonder of Bonbonon yacht harbour through millennia developed. Little known of by locals, Bonbonon is famous throughout the worldwide boating fraternity as a typhoon safe harbour in an otherwise typhoon prone region. HMO (UK) sailing instructions for the Philippines gives a long-time average of 22 typhoons per year. Generally the "typhoon season" runs from about April/May to about September/October. Sometimes, however, one can experience typhoons even in December - February. The great majority of these, however, do pass north of Cebu island and cause only heavy rain with some squalls over Negros Oriental ( Eastern Negros ).

After found by the early European sailors, the Spanish started to use the Bonbonon and Tambobo harbour as a safe haven and base for their ships. Thereby they established a settlement known as Bonbonon. In their normal modus operandi they built it up high away from marauders like their traditional enemies, the English, the Dutch, and the French. In their tradition they allowed the church to administer the majority of local affairs.

To this end a grand 3 story monastery was constructed around 1723. Built around 12 large stone columns, the ruins are still visible today directly opposite the modern church proudly constructed by the few residents who still remain. Within that new church can also be seen parts of the original monastery said to be close to 400 years old and originally erected by Muslim slaves.

The 12 stone columns were the framework supports for the original monastery. They are probably 20 ft tall and are still in good condition. You can still see the square holes where the beams were housed. The site is directly opposite the new church hidden in amongst the sari-sari stores.

At the turn of the last century after the Spanish American war, Spain had to withdraw and hand over Philippines to US as war "reparation". Road transport developed slowly and the regional administration centre was moved from Bonbonon to Siaton, now linked to Dumaguete. This made great sense as the roads facilitated faster communication. Even 3 crops of rice each year was possible where previously life was hard on a hill top - dry and waterless. Land where water had to be carried up from the springs around Tambobo at the beach side below.

Later day adventurers, like the yachties, have made Bonbonon harbour an international focal point leading to tourism on a grand scale for Negros. At any time up to and over 40 foreign yachts can be seen within the harbour, with tourist resorts emerging around it. Yachts are always the first to explore new locations, as for instance after the end of the Vietnam war and in secret Myanmar. The first to be permitted even into the Andaman islands were foreign yachts as India relaxed its rules.

Driving southward from Dumaguete one can find 3 routes from the highway toward the Bonbonon harbour. Coming from Dumaguete the turn off to Bonbonon is on your left hand side. The first turnoff at km 32 leads to Antulang. Situated on the protective peninsula formed to the south east of the Tambobo harbour where one can drive along the ridge enjoying views of the sea and glimpses of the protected Tambobo yacht anchorage inside. Antulang coastal cliff side resort is at the very tip on the seaward side. Hidden below on a lovely beach is Kookoos Nest catering for divers and peace lovers.